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Showing posts from June, 2014

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Let's Be Still

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I really love this band, and their newest album  Let's Be Still  is only better than their first. Here's a sample of their title track: The world's just spinning A little too fast If things don't slow down soon we might not last. The world's not forgiving Of everyone's fears. The days turn into months the months turn into years. So just for a moment, let's be still It begs the question: are you ever still? I tried it, and it's really difficult. I felt like I needed to be doing something, or I was simply wasting time. Our lives are either about productivity or entertainment -- creating or consuming. To sit and do neither feels like time misspent. But is it? I did a  search  to see what the bible says about being still. Here are some standout verses: Be still, and know that I am God. I will be exalted among the nations, I will be exalted in the earth! (Psalm 46:10) The Lord will fight for you, and you have only to be silent.

4 Years, 5 Spots - Surfing in Los Angeles

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Los Angeles is a tough town, full of cutthroat executives and self-preservationists living alongside an influx of dreamers that will do anything for free if it’s good for their career. LA will either make or break you...actually, even if it makes you there’s a good chance some breaking will still be involved. But as every surfer knows, a good break can be a wonderful thing (see what I did there?), and for me, the last four years have been marked by a different break every summer. So if you’re new to town, here’s the breakdown of what some of our most popular beaches have to offer. El Porto My first full summer in Los Angeles  was spent surfing every week at  Santa Monica . I wouldn’t say Santa Monica has a reputation as a great surf spot, but I’ve had so many good days there that it’s definitely worth checking out. Watch out though -- on bigger days this spot can close out faster and heavier than your bank account after moving here with no job, so check the  surf report  before

Yonder Breaks

I haven't written anything here in quite a while. There are two reasons: We had a kid I bought a website First reason: having a child. It inspires more ideas to write about, but takes up way more time, inhibiting writing them. That's a funny thing, right? I'm still figuring out that balance, and will probably never get "there," but hopefully closer to wherever "there" is (Lord willing). Second reason: I watched this video... Seeing these guys doing so much of what they love inspired me to do something I love -- write and surf. So I bought a website to share what I write about.. www.yonderbreaks.com Go there if you like to read things that I write, and I'll continue writing things that people hopefully want to read. Once again, that's www.yonderbreaks.com Thanks for reading!!

A Father's First Day

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Last Sunday was my first Father's Day, and it wasn't what I expected.... Father's Day is when Dad gets special treatment, right? You go out to eat where he wants, buy him something cool and mow the lawn so he doesn't have to. And so I went into Father's Day with that mindset --  my day . And sure enough, when my day came I heard over and over, "It's your day! Do what you want!" What did I want? If I  really  had what I wanted, I would have gone on a surf adventure that lasted all day, to a break my family probably would not have enjoyed, and eaten tacos afterwards at  T2 Tacos . And that's not because I didn't  want  to hang out with my family -- I love my family -- but if you give me a day and call it mine, I'm going to do something I love doing, but probably don't get to do that often; which in this case was go on a surf adventure to a gnarly spot. My friend Russell at the gnarly spot (photo by @jinheejoung). But what